I consider myself an average painter. I believe the techniques I use are pretty basic. I find I improve with practice and with tips I pick up from other painters. Most of what I have gleaned has been during my FOW painting time and therefore may be biased to 15mm and WW2
I have found most articles on the internet are designed for great painters and are often high level techniques.
So I thought I would share some of the things that have helped me along the way. I don't claim any of this as mine and therefore would like to put it here for others to use.
Please let me know if you find this useful and I will try to put up more. I will start with what I consider the basics. Again I am no expert, this is what has worked for me
1. Find a pleasant well lit environment. This will be different for everyone. The important thing is that you are comfortable, have your brushes and figures nearby and you can see them well. The best light to paint with is indirect sunlight, otherwise day light globes on both sides of you to eliminate shadow. You cannot paint what you cannot see.
2. Use the best tools you can afford. This will depend on budget. Windsor and Newton series seven are said to be the best brushes money can buy. I would like to pick some up soon. However I have used hobby and artist brushes to now. I buy sable brushes and the best quality possible. The better they are, given you use the correctly, the longer they will last.
3. Keep your brushes in good condition. For me, this means only dipping the tip in paint so the end of the brushes are wet. If you dip the brush in to the feroul, you will not be able to clean them out fully and this will lead to the brush no longer being able to form a point. The point is critical to painting. Always store them with the plastic protector on the end.
4. Wash hour brushes regularly. This is not only good for the brush. It is good for the painting. Gluggy paint in your brush doesn't flow and means you won't be able to paint as smoothly. Likewise, the longer paint is on the brush, the more time in has to dry and prevent the brush from forming a point.
5. Always undercoat your figures. This can be done by brush, spray can or airbrush. What is important is that there is an undercoat. It will sink into the figure slightly but it will prevent the paint chipping later as it creates something for successive layers to stick to. People use white, black, grey and other things. There are arguments for each of these but for now, just undercoat.
6. Clean your figures. This doesn't mean wash them in detergent. Although some do recommend this. Rather strape and file off mould lines, flash and extra moulding material. Nothing looks worse than a mould line down a figures face or helmet. Take your time, you will still miss some but the more you get the better the figure will look. A file is best for flat or consistent shapes like helmets. A blade is best for flash in hard to reach places. You want to also remember to get the underside if the figure base flat so it can be glued onto the base.
7. Use and old brush for metallic. The metallic pigments in paint is a killer to brushes. Reserve a brush for metallics and never use your best brush.
8. Ask for help. If you see something at a tournament or club meet you like, ask how it was done. Most people love to be asked and will happily share.
9. Always varnish figures when you are finished. It will help protect them from damage when playing and handling.
10. Work out a batch size that suits you. Some people like to paint one base at a time and enjoy the quick achievement. Others want to paint the whole army as one batch and enjoy doing 300 boots in a session. Painting shouldn't be a chore. Work out what you like to do and go with that. Any painting is better than no painting,
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